Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Paris. Show all posts

Friday, 4 April 2014

Paris Part Deux

We must have walked for miles all around Paris and by using the Metro system it didn't really matter if the attractions we wanted to see were close to each other. To be honest, the time spent on the Metro gave me the break from walking that I needed to recharge my batteries ready for the next bit.

This is the Sacre Coeur. With its Byzantine dome it's one of the major tourist attractions in Paris.


It's as high as the Eiffel Tower and allegedly has fantastic views from the viewing gallery.


The view of Paris from the steps was enough for us.


Every time we've been there's always been a harpist on the steps entertaining the tourists. Sometimes it's a woman but this time it was a man. He was very good but I suspect that the electronic equipment he was using as a backing track made him seem better than he actually was.


The area around Sacre Coeur is called Montmartre and is very touristy with lots of overpriced cafes and dodgy "artists" peddling tacky paintings of the area.  A few hundred metres down-hill though is the tiny Montmartre Vineyard. It's vines are very old and produce around 1500 bottles of wine every year. It's supposed to be pretty foul stuff though.


Neither of us are "culture vultures" and the thought of visiting the huge museums such as the Louvre or the Musee d'Orsay held no appeal.
We've " been there, done that" on previous visits with friends but this time the only thing I wanted to see was Rodin's sculpture of The Thinker.

The queue to get in the museum may not look very long but there was only one person on the cash desk and he was very slow so it actually took us almost half an hour to get inside.


The exhibition is housed in the Hotel Biron but the most famous of Rodin's sculptures are outside in beautiful gardens and as the weather was warm and sunny this suited us very nicely.


This is "The Gates of Hell".  At 6m tall and 4m wide it's pretty impressive and is Rodin's extremely dark representation of the Inferno written about by Dante.


The huge bronze sculptures start off in small scale


before being scaled up for the final exhibit. These are "The Three Shades"




I think Rodin must have been a very troubled man. The overall impression I got from his work was of misery and depression.




This is the one I'd wanted to see. "The Thinker"




More delicate sculptures made from plaster or clay were housed indoors.


I really liked this one. In fact I'd tried to make something similar years ago at school in my pottery class. It's not as easy as it looks!


From the sublime to the ridiculous......This "sculpture" was on show in the courtyard of one of the very exclusive hotels near the Place de Voges.  Rodin's work may have been dark and troubled but is definitely preferable!


One of the great things about just wandering aimlessly around the Parisian streets was all the fantastic shops we came across.


This patisserie was so tempting.  The English equivalent?  ......Greggs!


This tiny shop just sold shellfish, oysters and crustaceans, no fish.


The French equivalent of Harrods or Harvey Nicholls has to be the Galeries Lafayette.


The main dome over the cosmetic hall is amazing, as are the gilded galleries from which the shop gets its name.  It was mind-blowingly expensive and the only people we saw actually buying anything were the Japanese.


Paris has always had a problem with graffiti and the railway corridors are covered in it. A new troublesome craze has started however, and we saw lots of white vans that had been "decorated". Some versions were better than others but it must be soul destroying to park your van somewhere overnight and come back in the morning to find this.


We saw lots of these little Twizy cars around Paris. I suppose their size makes them the perfect solution to parking problems and as they have two seats, one behind the other, they're not quite as small as they seem.



Roger was rather more taken with this motorbike though.  It really was gorgeous, with copper mudguards and detailing and was obviously someone's pride and joy.


Both of us love the French cafe culture and food plays a big part in our visits to France. Some of the best meals we've ever had have been in small cafes like this, rather than in posh restaurants.


Brown paper "table-cloths" just add to the ambience.


Confit de Canard and saute potatoes remains a firm favourite of ours and this version was just delicious.


I like to try different foods and wine varieties whenever possible and the Basque restaurant that we had dinner in one night was a good example.


The Poulet Basquaise (Basque Chicken) and Madiran wine were delicious. I'll certainly be looking out for this on the wine shelves in our supermarkets.


The best restaurant that we ate in was this one near Anvers. The 1000 & 1 Signs is a very small place with only around 20 places and is run by a young deaf guy whose mother does the cooking.



The food is Moroccan and you order from the menu by making the hand sign at the side of the dish.


 The walls are covered with photographs depicting the most common hand signs.


This is the sign for "Please"


When we were still building boats, one of our employees was profoundly deaf and we both learnt some sign language so that we could communicate with him.  When we told the waiter this he became quite excited and we had a good "chat" with him. As you'd expect, French sign language is different to English although some of the basic signs were the same.

Our food was really nice. Roger had the chicken, prune and almond tajine and I had a lamb one. The couscous that came with the stews was so light and fluffy it was like eating a cloud!

Of all the restaurants we ate in while we were in Paris this is the only one I'd go back to.



Well that's all folks!  I hope you've enjoyed visiting Paris with me.

I'll be back to blogging about our canal travels again tomorrow.  We've moved out of Market Harborough Basin and are now moored up on the main line in a nice quiet spot.  The canal has been quite busy today with Canaltime hire boats, which operate out of the Basin, coming and going. I suppose it's a sign of things to come, after all it is almost the Easter holidays and up until now the canal has been extremely quiet.








Thursday, 3 April 2014

From Paris With Love

We had an amazing time in Paris. We've been a couple of times before but the novelty never wears off and this time we visited places we haven't been before.  If you're interested, grab yourself a glass of wine or a mug of tea and join me for my guided tour.

To make the most of our few days we bought a Paris Visite transport pass. For £30 each we had unlimited travel by metro, bus or train anywhere in the city....and trust me, we certainly got our money's worth.  If we couldn't decide where to go or what to see we just jumped on the nearest metro and let that decide for us which way we were going. Most Metro trains are every 3 minutes and are very clean and not overly crowded except in rush hour.



Our first monument was the Arche de Triomphe. Last time we went the traffic was just grid-locked all around it but this time it was much better.


The Arch is being cleaned, not a job you'd want unless you were OK with heights!


It was a bit surreal seeing these Buddhist monks being normal tourists and photographing everything. They were having a great time.


The weather was glorious all the time we were in Paris and the recent smogs had thankfully cleared. Last week the pollution had been so bad that the government waived Metro charges in an attempt to get commuters to leave their cars behind.

We spent a pleasant couple of hours chilling out in the Luxembourg Gardens one afternoon.








One area was cordoned off with warning signs to stay away as there were several bee hives with swarms of bees buzzing around.


The bees were there to pollinate the specimen apple trees in one section of the park. There were many different "heritage" varieties some of which were just starting to blossom.


 

Last time we visited Notre Dame it was far to busy to go inside but there were no queues this time so we went for a look around.


The outside of the building is very ornate and has actually been cleaned since our last visit.




Inside is just as spectacular.




You can't go to Paris and not visit the Eiffel Tower now can you?



We didn't bother going up but we did come back at night to see it illuminated and watch it "flash & sparkle" for 10 minutes on the hour. I prefer it at night. It's absolutely spectacular!


Wouldn't you think we'd have enough of canals and boats here in England?  Not so, as usual we ended up walking along the Canal St. Martin which is wide and has huge staircase locks but there was a distinct lack of boats.



We also walked along the "tow-path" beside the River Seine.  This river cruise ship came past and tried to get under the bridge beside the Eiffel Tower


but got stuck!


The skipper had to reverse out


while crew members removed the railings from the roof



15 minutes later it just squeezed through.


I think if we ever move our boat to France I'd like to moor here.


One of my favourite things to do in France is browse the markets. I'm not interested in the tat that some of the stalls sell, just the food!

mushrooms


individual salad leaves, not mixed pre-washed packs....and check-out the white asparagus!



spices



fresh pastas and gnochi


pigeon and quail legs


and the most beautiful tomatoes you've ever seen......and they smelled pretty good too.




We couldn't resist and had ourselves a little picnic in the park.


One day we ended up at the Pere-Lachaise cemetery. This is the final resting place of many famous people, both French and foreigners.


It's a huge, weirdly beautiful place set on a hill with spectacular views over Paris. At 116 acres it's easy to get lost so local shops sell maps showing where the "celebrities" are buried.

 


Amongst the ancient tombs we found this new and unmarked one which looked really out of place.


The composer Rossini has his own memorial although his remains have been returned to his home in Italy.


Chopin is buried here but we couldn't find his grave. Amazingly there was quite a crowd around this one.  It belongs to the ex-Doors lead singer Jim Morrison who died in Paris in 1971 aged 28. The area around his grave is fenced off in an attempt to stop fans defacing the neighbouring graves with messages of love for the singer.



That's enough for today. If you're still interested join me again tomorrow for part 2.